JK Project

[Melodywriter]

I had the opportunity to meet some of you guys at the SCUFF meet n greet in July and tested out my completely stock JK ('08 Sahara) on Sidewinder...  She did good and I've been following the IV 4x4 guys around a bit, but the time has come to start buildin' her up.  I've been tryin to figure out exactly what I want to upgrade to.  I still want good driveablility on-road (it'll be my daily driver in the near future), but I also want better off road capability too.

My goal: Run 33s with decent articulation, be able to climb some relatively challenging obstacles but nothing too crazy.  (I'm gonna do rocker guards and real bumpers etc too (probably the Rugged Ridge modular xhd bumper) but I want to do the lift first.)

I'm not sure exactly what lift I want yet, but I'm pretty sure I don't want to go higher than 3".  The problem I've been running into is the warranty issue.  I know that adding a lift doesn't void the warranty in and of itself but if the dealer can blame the lift/tires/wheels etc for whatever broke, I'd be SOL.  Apparently Mopar has a 2" lift that will be covered under the factory warranty (the lift and anything it breaks) if its installed at a dealership, but the stealership wants 2Gs for it. 

From everything I've been researching & talking to peeps about, it seems that the driveshaft is the main weak point in the JKs.  Apparently they break pretty easy with ANY lift.  And those aren't cheap to replace.  But, if I get an aftermarket driveshaft, I shouldn't have a problem (supposedly).  I've looked into the RE 3.5, Full Traction 3.0 and Teraflex 2.5 and just adding whatever else I need (quick discos etc if the kit doesn't have em), and its coming out to about the same price (or a lil less) incl. installation, more if I get a new driveshaft.

I guess my main question is do you guys have any info on the Mopar 2" lift (which supposedly ends up being closer to 3")?  Besides it being $$$$ and coming from a stealership.  Know anyone that runs it?  I've read that its basically a rebadged RE lift with a couple of modifications.  Do you think its worth biting the bullet on the $ in order to maintain the factory warranty?  Or say screw it and put the money I save on getting a different lift towards a new driveshaft?  I keep going back and forth on this and its driving me nuts! I've got an extensive thread going on the IV forum and I'm probably driving them just as crazy. lol

Wow that was a long post...  I'd appreciate any input tho!  Thanks guys!

[Mikegyver1]

Guess, first off did you buy the extended warranty or is it the factory? I think if I was in your position with a warranty issue. why not play it safe and install a 1 inch body lift and a 1 - 2 inch spring spacer lift. If you ever have an issue and need to take in, just remove the spacers and your back to stock. The body lift shouldn't void the warranty. And you won't be out lots of dough. 
 As for the driveshafts you are correct I've seen two different JK's with stock driveline problems. Both with 3.5" lifts.

Then on the other shoulder (Devil) Your gonna break something one of these days might as well go for it. 

[Melodywriter]

Guess, first off did you buy the extended warranty or is it the factory? I think if I was in your position with a warranty issue. why not play it safe and install a 1 inch body lift and a 1 - 2 inch spring spacer lift. If you ever have an issue and need to take in, just remove the spacers and your back to stock. The body lift shouldn't void the warranty. And you won't be out lots of dough. 
 As for the driveshafts you are correct I've seen two different JK's with stock driveline problems. Both with 3.5" lifts.

Then on the other shoulder (Devil) Your gonna break something one of these days might as well go for it. 

No, I didn't buy the extended warranty.  I figured it wasn't the best bet with Chrysler's future looking kinda shaky at that time.  I just have the factory 3 yr/ 36k miles and the lifetime drivetrain.

I hadn't thought about the body lift part tho.  Davidwymore suggested just doing the spacer lift & removing it when necessary, but I'd also have to swap out tires & wheels, cuz as far as I know, 33s won't fit in the stock wheel well...  & is that more of a pain in the *** than its worth?

As for the JKs with the driveline problem, do you know if they swapped it out for a custom d/s after the fact? or tried to get it fixed under the warranty?

hehe, the lil angel and devil on my shoulders have been having a knock down drag out brawl about this whole thing..   One is saying "screw it, just go for it" and the other is saying "but but but but $$$$ owww!"

[Matt]

I ran a 4dr 07 with 4" lift and 35s for awhile. I'd recommend getting what ever coverage you can. I lost my warranty before i even started to mod because of stupid dealers and me getting angry. I can answer a lot of questions if you have any, just let me know.

[Mikegyver1]

The two people I know swapped out the driveshafts after they started going south. I'm not sure how tall of a lift before the driveline starts to bind, your shocks most likely will be the limiting factor. Unless you have longer then stock shocks, then you'll need limiting straps to help keep the driveshaft from binding ( most problems were with the rear shaft).
 I like the 1" body lift for three reasons: 1. gives you more room to get your hands, wrenchs etc.. up around the trans and transfercase. 2. Helps keep your tires out of the fenders. No need to cut up the fender well. 3. It gets rid of the body roll that rubber bushing give (Never noticed it, but that's what they claim) and it's only $150 bucks

[-96jeepspeed-]

Even if a 1" body lift will void the warrenty, I bet most of the "Technicians"
Wont even notice.

[Melodywriter]

Are most of the dealers in the SD area not mod-friendly?  A lot of what I keep hearing is that what ends up being covered under the warranty is at the dealership's discretion...
I bought my jeep in Sacramento, and the El Centro dealer closed down about 6 months ago, so my closest dealer is Yuma which I've kinda got the vibe isn't mod-friendly either.

The two people I know swapped out the driveshafts after they started going south. I'm not sure how tall of a lift before the driveline starts to bind, your shocks most likely will be the limiting factor. Unless you have longer then stock shocks, then you'll need limiting straps to help keep the driveshaft from binding ( most problems were with the rear shaft).
 I like the 1" body lift for three reasons: 1. gives you more room to get your hands, wrenchs etc.. up around the trans and transfercase. 2. Helps keep your tires out of the fenders. No need to cut up the fender well. 3. It gets rid of the body roll that rubber bushing give (Never noticed it, but that's what they claim) and it's only $150 bucks

I'll definitely look into the body lift too, haven't had the chance yet.  I do plan on new shocks as well, to correspond with whatever height lift I end up getting.  Would it be a good idea to get limiting straps pretty much no matter what height, or would they not be needed for around a 2.5" lift?  What was the problem they had with the driveshaft? I've heard of the boot tearing and one guy posted that it got hung up on the tranny skid plate...or something like that.

I ran a 4dr 07 with 4" lift and 35s for awhile. I'd recommend getting what ever coverage you can. I lost my warranty before i even started to mod because of stupid dealers and me getting angry. I can answer a lot of questions if you have any, just let me know.

Did you have any driveline problems with the 4" lift?  And how did you lose your warranty? (if you don't mind my asking)

I'm just full of questions... Thanks!!!

[Mikegyver1]

I'll definitely look into the body lift too, haven't had the chance yet.  I do plan on new shocks as well, to correspond with whatever height lift I end up getting.  Would it be a good idea to get limiting straps pretty much no matter what height, or would they not be needed for around a 2.5" lift?  What was the problem they had with the driveshaft? I've heard of the boot tearing and one guy posted that it got hung up on the tranny skid plate...or something like that.

 If you jack up the vehicle by the bumper and let the suspension droopy your drive shafts should turn freely (with the tranfercase in nutural) If there are tight spots your maxed out ( strap it up till the driveline turns freely )
 2.5" suspension lift will be fine, but if you disconect the rear sway bar I would check it. Your shocks will most likely be the limiting factor.

[DavidWymore]

Little lift, little body lift, longer shocks and disconnects but with limit straps at the diffs. That way the axle can articulate but not over-droop and bid the shaft in the middle. Like and airshock setup. MW, you should check out Eric's buggy for a good visual.




http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r118/DavidWhymore/WheelinVids/

[4x4LOYR]

.
I know lots of guys that run the stock driveshafts until they go south, and then upgrade.  There are a few other things that come into play: automatic trans vs maunal, four-door vs two-door, height of lift, etc...  (My experience has been that the 4-door automatic guys are ripping the boot on the Front Drivershaft as a result of too high a lift -- the skid plate gets in the way.)  I run trails with lots of JK guys, we're all on JKowners.com.  It is a great resource for JK stuff.

I've done numerous lifts (suspension and budget boosts) on JK's, plus driveshafts, axles, diff covers, and many other things.  If you've got questions or want help doing some wrenching, there is a group of us here in North County (San Diego) that love to BBQ and get greasy.

Ty...

[DavidWymore]

Sounds like the man to talk to. 

How do you get greasy working on a nice shiny clean new jeep? 

[Melodywriter]

I know lots of guys that run the stock driveshafts until they go south, and then upgrade.  There are a few other things that come into play: automatic trans vs maunal, four-door vs two-door, height of lift, etc...  (My experience has been that the 4-door automatic guys are ripping the boot on the Front Drivershaft as a result of too high a lift -- the skid plate gets in the way.)  I run trails with lots of JK guys, we're all on JKowners.com.  It is a great resource for JK stuff.

I've done numerous lifts (suspension and budget boosts) on JK's, plus driveshafts, axles, diff covers, and many other things.  If you've got questions or want help doing some wrenching, there is a group of us here in North County (San Diego) that love to BBQ and get greasy.

Ty...

My Jeeps a 2-door automatic... (I tried to post a pic to my profile but it didn't work..)

We put it up on the lift at David's shop on fri nite and took a look at how the angles change and all that.  It looked like it'd be ok with a 2.5" lift.  Has anyone you know had an issue with a smaller lift like that or are they all 3.5" or higher?  I just joined up on JKowners.com & I'll start peeking around on there too.  Thanks for the offer on some help n stuff.  I might take you up on that in the near future.


Did some further checking into that  2" Mopar lift that supposedly is warranteed and wont adversely affect the factory warranty.  Turns out the actual warrantor of that lift (LKI inc.) filed for a chapter 11 bankruptcy this past april...so that idea is out.  If something were to break on the lift or because of it, chances are that I'd be SOL on getting it covered under the warranty due to their bankruptcy.   

Here's my new plan:  Teraflex 2.5" susp lift, bilstein shocks, Teraflex sway bar quick disconnects and try not to break anything so I don't have to fight with the dealership...

[Mikegyver1]

Get-R-Done 

[Melodywriter]

Little lift, little body lift, longer shocks and disconnects but with limit straps at the diffs. That way the axle can articulate but not over-droop and bid the shaft in the middle. Like and airshock setup. MW, you should check out Eric's buggy for a good visual.

http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r118/DavidWhymore/WheelinVids/

Holy crap that looks like fun!   Me n my jeep arent quite up to that yet, but I'd love to see his buggy in action in real life.

[Melodywriter]

Get-R-Done 

lol    still gotta find the $$...  I'm getting there tho

[Melodywriter]

Updated plan:

Already have the TF quick discos installed (thanks David & Cole).  But unfortunately with the stock wheels (6.25in backspacing) I can't run 'em discoed without the bolt rubbing on the sidewalls...   Just took off the links and zip-tied the swaybar for now...
So I figure I better hurry up and get lift/tires/wheels etc.

The plan is:

2.5in TF coil spring lift
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Procomp 16x8 wheels
285/75R16 Goodyear MTRs
Rugged Ridge front & rear modular bumpers (w/ tire carrier)

Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions or snide remarks before I pull the trigger on this?  Thanks guys!

[4x4LOYR]

Updated plan:
Already have the TF quick discos installed (thanks David & Cole).  But unfortunately with the stock wheels (6.25in backspacing) I can't run 'em discoed without the bolt rubbing on the sidewalls...

Are you able to turn the bolts around?  Face them the opposite direction?

The plan is:
2.5in TF coil spring lift
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Procomp 16x8 wheels
285/75R16 Goodyear MTRs
Rugged Ridge front & rear modular bumpers (w/ tire carrier)
Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions or snide remarks before I pull the trigger on this?  Thanks guys!

Bigger tires.  Always go BIGGER.

[Melodywriter]

Are you able to turn the bolts around?  Face them the opposite direction?

Bigger tires.  Always go BIGGER.

Ya, when we installed the discos, we flipped the bolt around so it was facing inwards & Davidwymore chopped the bolt a little bit so it wouldn't hit the coil bucket.  When discoed, the head of the bolt is REAL close to the sidewall at full lock on flat ground, and rubs with barely one foot of articulation...

..hehe...and I am going bigger!  31s to 33s!  That counts right...?

[4x4LOYR]

..hehe...and I am going bigger!  31s to 33s!  That counts right...?

That's cool.  Does a 285/75R16 = 33"?  I was thinking around 32" . . . but then again, I run 315/70R17 and call them 35's (whereas I think they may be more like 34's). 

[Melodywriter]

That's cool.  Does a 285/75R16 = 33"?  I was thinking around 32" . . . but then again, I run 315/70R17 and call them 35's (whereas I think they may be more like 34's). 

Ya, according to Goodyear's size chart they end up being 33.1in. 

Ordered everything yesterday.  Totally pumped!