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Author Topic: Dana 30 Steering?  (Read 1119 times)
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Mikegyver1
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« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2010, 10:00:33 AM »

After looking at all the junk out there, I would build my own based off the RK design. I don't like the heim joints that it came with and had to up grade. I used 5/8" hardware at the knuckles, heims are 3/4" x 5/8"
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« Reply #21 on: February 28, 2010, 10:39:23 AM »

What did you do for your knuckles? Did you weld on them?

 oops Who is RK  oops

After looking at all the junk out there, I would build my own based off the RK design. I don't like the heim joints that it came with and had to up grade. I used 5/8" hardware at the knuckles, heims are 3/4" x 5/8"
« Last Edit: February 28, 2010, 10:44:58 AM by hurleyup » Logged

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« Reply #22 on: March 01, 2010, 08:50:25 AM »

Have you seen Blue Torch Fab's cross over steering Knuckle?  http://bluetorchfab.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=66_29_30&products_id=447

Take a look at this old post. This is the steering I built for my D30.  Look at my posts, page 5, post # 103 if the link won't work.

http://www.socalultimate4x4.com/index.php?action=post;topic=120.msg19213;quote=19213;sesc=23d50e55a2bdc1b3c7de3362e1db8b4b
« Last Edit: March 01, 2010, 08:53:53 AM by 99xj » Logged

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« Reply #23 on: March 01, 2010, 10:35:19 AM »

There is an easier way.

As much as I hate Currie (and I absolutely despise Currie products), they DO make a heavy duty bolt on steering system for TJs.  I HATE the tie rod they use, but it is strong enough for most applications.

I have had every kind of heavy duty steering setup on my TJ.  I had the goferrit offroad one.  It bent.  I had the Currie one.  It bent.  I had the WJ upgrade.  It bent.

When I upgraded the front to a D44, I built my own steering.  It's better, but a lot of work.  If you are sticking with a D30, then get the Currie bolt on system. By the time you bend it, you'll be ready to upgrade your front axle, anyway.
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« Reply #24 on: March 01, 2010, 02:35:33 PM »

I've seen the Currie. For $389.00 I am not feeling it. It is like a stock one on steriods. I wanted to do a high steer. I looked at the Blue Torch set up. It says it doesn't work with coil springs. I'll call them.

edit: I just called Blue Torch they don't  have anything that will work on a TJ unless you run coilovers.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2010, 02:40:13 PM by hurleyup » Logged

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« Reply #25 on: March 02, 2010, 08:18:05 AM »

What did you do for your knuckles? Did you weld on them?

 oops Who is RK  oops

Rock Krawler... It still has heims just better heims
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« Reply #26 on: March 02, 2010, 11:20:59 AM »

Yes but heims wear out faster than TRE's especially o the street.  And with heims you have to drill out the taper in the knuckles so you have to be sure the bolts are always tite or the knuckles will get ovaled out.  The trick is chevy 1 ton TRE's and chromoly tubing.  I have the tap for the 7/8 18 chevy TRE's both left and  right hand thread


These are good moog part numbers
ES2027L Drag link upper
ES2026R Drag link lower
ES2234R Tie rod drivers side
ES2233L Tie rod passenger side reamed out for lower drag link


I ran that steering on my XJ and hated it with a passion.  The drag link just rolls the tie rod back and forth and creates a huge dead spot in the steering.  It is a quick, easy and cheap way to go but in the end I hated it.  I wouldn't spend my money on the Currie kit.  It's bigger than stock but uses the exact same design which is what I disliked about the stock steering.

The ORO U-turn is expensive but I've never seen anything better.  I know a ton of people who run it and everyone is glad they spent the money.

If you just want a stronger tie rod it's easy to make and you can use Dodge TRE's to get a bit larger joint out of the deal.  Very simple and cheap to do.  Combine it with the beefier ZJ drag link and you get a poor man's Currie setup.

Here's the one I made: http://members.cox.net/jkorda/jeep/mods/tierod.html
« Last Edit: March 02, 2010, 11:29:18 AM by korda » Logged

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« Reply #27 on: March 02, 2010, 02:55:38 PM »

Oh well I went out and bought the Currie setup today and installed it. It was a simple install. I wanted to run it without a steering stabilizer but on my test drive I didn't make it 1/4 mile and got the death wobbles. I put the stabilizer on and it is as smooth as butter. I am now ready for TDS.
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« Reply #28 on: March 03, 2010, 07:53:39 AM »

Oh well I went out and bought the Currie setup today and installed it. It was a simple install. I wanted to run it without a steering stabilizer but on my test drive I didn't make it 1/4 mile and got the death wobbles. I put the stabilizer on and it is as smooth as butter. I am now ready for TDS.

Might be worth the time to figure out what is causing the wobble.  If it was covered up by the steering stabilizer it's probably something simple like the alignment.  The stabilizer is a more of a bandaid than a fix.  Did you check the toe after you installed the steering?
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« Reply #29 on: March 03, 2010, 08:10:45 AM »

Might be worth the time to figure out what is causing the wobble.  If it was covered up by the steering stabilizer it's probably something simple like the alignment.  The stabilizer is a more of a bandaid than a fix.  Did you check the toe after you installed the steering?


X2....figure out the problem, the stabilizer is just masking whatever is wrong. Defiantly something minor if the stabilizer takes care of it.
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« Reply #30 on: March 03, 2010, 10:18:30 AM »

I agree on the stabilizer being a band aid. I am going to get it aligned. I never was a big fan of having the extra shock strapped on the drag link!
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« Reply #31 on: March 03, 2010, 10:20:40 AM »

I did check the toe in. It is right at 5/16.

Might be worth the time to figure out what is causing the wobble.  If it was covered up by the steering stabilizer it's probably something simple like the alignment.  The stabilizer is a more of a bandaid than a fix.  Did you check the toe after you installed the steering?
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« Reply #32 on: March 03, 2010, 10:25:03 AM »

I did check the toe in. It is right at 5/16.


that seems like a lot. Isn't it supposed to be +- 1/8 ??
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« Reply #33 on: March 03, 2010, 10:34:00 AM »

I'm not sure what the right setting is. I was going to drive it for a few miles then re check everything and set it. On our big trucks we set the toe in at 1/8. That seems to make the tires wear even.

that seems like a lot. Isn't it supposed to be +- 1/8 ??
 
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« Reply #34 on: March 03, 2010, 12:52:25 PM »

Death Wobble on the freeway is no fun. bring a change of unders..  Junker
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« Reply #35 on: March 03, 2010, 02:08:57 PM »

We just did a "Redneck Alignment" in my shop and found that I was over 3/4 toe in.  oops I set it at 1/8 toe in. I think I'm good to go. Plus now I have sexy green lines on my tires! punk
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« Reply #36 on: March 03, 2010, 02:15:31 PM »

Years ago I have a F150 that would get the death wobbles at 45 mph. During rush hour traffic if I slowed to 45 on the freeway, it would wobble and the only way to get it to stop would be to come to a complete stop on the freeway. It was so scary, I hated that truck!! After 3 different shops it was decided that the Rancho lift kit had too much caster built into it. Being a beam front end they had to do some cutting and welding to fix it.

Death Wobble on the freeway is no fun. bring a change of unders..  Junker
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« Reply #37 on: April 13, 2010, 11:47:18 PM »

just to add to this thread, i just ordered the heim steering kit from ballistic for my XJ. its very heavy duty and ill post up how i like it after i get it on and get some miles on it. and it was $100 less than the currie set up
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