Project 4x4

[patrickgraven]

Ok so after thinking of possibly buying a jeep (i know im sorry) I think Im going to move ahead on my plans to convert my 2wd prerunner to 4x4. Now before anyone says just sell it and buy a 4wd to start, this truck was my first car and it has alot of sentimental value, so its not going anywhere. What Im thinking is this, try to use as many toyota parts as possible to keep cost low (axles and t-case). Could or should I use one of those ready made sfa kits from all pro or marlin or should I do something all my own. This isnt going to be a hardcore wheeler, I just want a nice family cruiser to be able to go on mild trail runs.
Currently it sits this way
-fiberglass front and rear
-mild engine mods (22re w/5spd)
-31's

I would like to:
-sfa
-35's
-cage it from cab to tailgate and put a bench in the bed for my boys
-shell or canback

Is there anything im missing, what parts should I use or stay away from.
Thanks
Patrick ~devil2

[hammeredtoys]

What year is your toy? Also check out datin fab at datin.com out of hemet he designed the high steer for toyota's!!! He also fabs most of the front spring hangers for all pro and marlin at one time!! He help me out with all my hangers and springs for my toy and he is great to work with!!

[DavidWymore]

Good decision keeping with the yota. Jeeps have a hard time with 35s.

SAS it all yota parts.

Should run 35s no problem.

[patrickgraven]

my toy is a 93 2wd standard cab short bed. Now should I keep the fiberglass bedsides or go back to all steel (im going to keep the front glass). Are there any particular toyota parts to get or stay away from. I have heard that fj80 axles are good but expensive.

[DavidWymore]

my toy is a 93 2wd standard cab short bed. Now should I keep the fiberglass bedsides or go back to all steel (im going to keep the front glass). Are there any particular toyota parts to get or stay away from. I have heard that fj80 axles are good but expensive.

Got a pic of your bed? If it's still functional I'd leave it as is. Might not fit some places quite so good, but will fit over the 35s with less lift.

And yeah on the FJ axles.

[patrickgraven]

Well I found that datum fab on ebay, and their spring hanger kit is like $80 which is about $100 cheaper than marlin or all-pro so im going to pick that up and start there. The bed i have on it now is completely usable. It still has a complete bed floor and tailgate. And I measured front and rear and with the glass measures out at 72". which im not sure if thats too wide or not.

[patrickgraven]

those are the most recent pictures of how it currently sits.

[hammeredtoys]

I would stick with a 1979 to 85 solid axle from a toy! I would look at the 4" springs will have no problems with 35's. Steering I would look at the high steer so you can use the steering box you have are you will need a early push pull type of steering box.I would look for a gear driving top shift t-case. The only other thing is the transfer case cross member check your frame should be 4 bolt holes on each side, don't know how your cross member is now for the trans. and if you are interested i have a 1981 front axle and a cross member!

[hammeredtoys]

I'am sorry it is www.datinfab.com check it out!!!!!!!

[patrickgraven]

yeah thanks I found them (somehow I stumbled onto his ebay store) and my spring hanger kit should be here tomarrow. I will have check out the frame on it when my truck returns (brothers barrowing it) and see if its got the bolt holes. I went to pick a part today and the frames are the same width and everything so I would assume other than the suspension mounts they are the same. I went to another junkyard and the guy started saying why dont you sell it and I stopped him. So the 4" springs are the ones to get, what about shackles. And now I see the point of the high steer kit, I just added power steering so I will get that. Hammerdtoys if you still have that axle after the expo I'll have to check it out. And as far as the transmission I will have to replace that with a 4wd one right, or can I just swap out the tail section. And what am I looking for when looking for a geardriven t-case. Is the markings of distinguishing features. Thanks guys

[hammeredtoys]

I like the 4" spring just becuase it dosent sit to high! and still flexes good! I'am running a 12" travel shock and 35's now but going to 37's.and for your trans you will need a w56 out of a 89 or later 4wd and a RF1a 4-cyl gear driven t-case forword shift if you have a bench seat this keeps the 4wd shifter close to the trans shifter. if you have bucket seats you could use a w56 out a 84 or later toy and a RF1A top shift t-case and it would put the shifter back 8 to 10" form trans shifter. hope thats not to much you can check out marlincrawler.com lots of info!!!! and pic's! and if there is no bolt holes ther are a few after market t-case mount that can be welded to your frame.Here few pic"s of mine

[ntsqd]

Probably too late, but if you've got a good tube guy I'm not sure that I'd mess with leaf springs. They're simple and effective, but you will never equal the IFS ride quality. I've heard/read those that say that you can. As the owner of an '84 Xcab 4x and a past member of Locos Mocos I say hogwash! I'm afraid those that claim it don't really know the difference. That isn't to say that the leaf spring ride will be rough with no possible fix, just that truly bombing down the nearest washboard won't be as fun as it is now.

I would do a radius arm and coil-over front suspension. It still won't ride as good as an IFS, but it is a reasonable compromise. With the right length radius arm your front drive shaft plunge will cease to exist. No need for a long stroke slip-yoke like long travel leaves can require.

If you don't have the cross member bolt holes (my '86 RET doesn't) I would use the FROF t/c plate with a single Hega joint at the bottom of it connected to a rigidly bolted on cross member.
I would NOT use this kit as it has 2 bushings. The reason is that 3 points make a plane. Put in a fourth point and one will always be a little bit off. That little bit off puts all of the frame parts in a torsion, which they're usually not happy about and have a habit of breaking things. Just generally not a good idea.

[84socal]

 dud with the glass front and rear    with  the sfa converson and  3 in springs from trail-gear   ul will clear 35 and have room to spare     im running 3 allpro buggys all around and clearing with ease   i have room enough room to clear 38s right now without having to cut myfire wall   ur gonna want ur  ultimate goal to be  keep the center of gravity down especially on a shorter truck like urs     
and u dont have to go all out and by brand new
look on classifieds   on marlin   pirate  brawlers trail-gear

 my truck is pretty much built on  used parts  the only thing i bought new is the front and rear spring hangers dual tcase adapter  hysteer and my tapped steering box  everthing else   used i got through  trading or buying   

and if u need help with any of it   i know a couple good guys  that are willing to help new guys out     pm me if u have any ?s bro   
 

[84socal]

Probably too late, but if you've got a good tube guy I'm not sure that I'd mess with leaf springs. They're simple and effective, but you will never equal the IFS ride quality. I've heard/read those that say that you can. As the owner of an '84 Xcab 4x and a past member of Locos Mocos I say hogwash! I'm afraid those that claim it don't really know the difference. That isn't to say that the leaf spring ride will be rough with no possible fix, just that truly bombing down the nearest washboard won't be as fun as it is now.

I would do a radius arm and coil-over front suspension. It still won't ride as good as an IFS, but it is a reasonable compromise. With the right length radius arm your front drive shaft plunge will cease to exist. No need for a long stroke slip-yoke like long travel leaves can require.

If you don't have the cross member bolt holes (my '86 RET doesn't) I would use the FROF t/c plate with a single Hega joint at the bottom of it connected to a rigidly bolted on cross member.
I would NOT use this kit as it has 2 bushings. The reason is that 3 points make a plane. Put in a fourth point and one will always be a little bit off. That little bit off puts all of the frame parts in a torsion, which they're usually not happy about and have a habit of breaking things. Just generally not a good idea.

ya the reason ifs rides better than ur leaf spring truck is from the pic u have posted of ur truck   the springs look mighty stock to me   u get a ap  or marlin spring on there that has been broken in    they ride a little better that a stock ifs rig     
and a radius arm coil over front end can be complicated an way more trouble than its worth       situations like this     use the k.i.s.s. method
KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID
and often time it end up being more reliable cheeper    less of a head ache   and easier to build

[patrickgraven]

Alright thanks for all the useful information. I looked at the frame and there are holes, but none in any particular pattern. Ok after just checking out pictures from my haynes manuals I will have to find a weld in crossmember, as the 2wd tranny crossmember is welded on. I would like to do links, but I want to do this on the cheap and I belive that using stock used parts is the best way to go. Especially since I can sell some of my prerunner parts to ofset the cost of the conversion.

[Big boy]

Hey Pat, let me know if you need help with anything, I'd be glad to come over and help you wrench on your truck. I  have a big hammer and a fresh roll of duct tape that I've been itching to use. ~clown ~hammer

[patrickgraven]

Thats a good thing you got that big hammer and duct tape John, cause the ups man just delivered my spring hangers ~clap ;D

[Big boy]

Thats a good thing you got that big hammer and duct tape John, cause the ups man just delivered my spring hangers ~clap ;D

woo hoo ~clap ~clap ~clap

 ~hammer the hammers ready ~hammer

[patrickgraven]

Alright it was looking on marlin and I saw the twin stick, is that worth the extra money and I was thinking of the 4.7:1
gearing. And for 35's are your running 529's. Also 4 bolt high steer or the 6 bolt. Thanks ~devil2

[hammeredtoys]

I,m running 4.70 gear set in rear reduction box and a 2.28 in the front crawl box and i just installed it last week! and 5.29 in diffs a spool in the rear and det locker in the front. twin stick would be nice you do have to completely take apart t-case to in stall a twin stick to get a pin out of inside that keep the  shifter lock in when in 2 or 4WD basically you can shift from 4wd to 2wd and stay in low range.to run the 6 stud arms you need the 6 stud knuckle at 230.00 for the set. I have the 6 stud arms and going upgrade knuckles later! ~rockon